Hatte im Frühjahr auch gute Erfahrung mit Rolands Link. Hier eine Zusammenfassung der "Anleitung". Leider auf Englisch und sehr lang. Bitte auch mal dem Bilder-Link folgen (
http://spotks.blogspot.com/ ). Erklärt sich fast von selbst beim Anschau'n.
FXD Vibration Problem Cured
I have a 2005 FXDI with a HD 95 inch Stage I kit.
Like some others on the Forum, my bike had, what I consider, excessive engine vibration transmitted to the handlebar, foot pegs, and seat. The vibration was especially evident below 3000 rpm. At idle, the handlebars jumped around excessively.
I followed the Service Manual procedure for vehicle alignment in an attempt to reduce the vibration. Alignment includes loosening (but NOT removing) ALL the motor mount attachment bolts, and then running the motor for 5 seconds during which allow the mounts to align themselves to the frame. The motor mount attachment bolts are then retorqued to spec. The procedure helped a little, but did not cure the problem. I also looked at other changes that might address the vibration problem such as “Bar Snake”, different length handlebars, handlebar mount bushings, etc. All these are Band-Aids on the fundamental problem of too much vibration.
A few weeks later I was thinking about the motor mounts and the alignment procedure and was struck by the cause/cure of the vibration problem. Any elastic motor mount, like the Dyna’s, has a limit to how much vibration it can absorb. Engine movement in excess of this limit is transmitted through the frame to the handlebars, foot pegs, seat, etc as vibration.
What struck me was that when I did the alignment procedure and the mounting bolts were LOOSE, there was a gap between the mount and the frame. Tightening the mounting bolts caused my front motor mount to be PULLED forward to the frame as the mounting bolts were tightened. I noticed that when the mounting bolts were torqued, the frame was also deflected somewhat.
THE ELASTIC TRAVEL OF MY MOTOR MOUNTS WAS LARGELY USED UP JUST BY BOLTING THE MOTOR MOUNT TO THE FRAME.
Any movement of the motor would not be absorbed by the mount – the elasticity of the mount is already used up before the motor is even started. Hence any engine movement is transmitted to the frame and is felt as a vibration. This would also explain premature failure of Dyna motor mounts – they are under stress to begin with.
My solution was to shim the gap between the UNSTRESSED front motor mount and the frame. THE ENTIRE INHERENT ELASTICITY OF THE MOUNTS IS NOW AVAILABLE TO ABSORB ENGINE MOTION. MY VIBRATION PROBLEM WAS GONE!
Picture “A” shows the gap between the unstressed front motor mount and the frame of my bike – it is almost 0.2 inches. The solution is to shim this gap.
Picture “B” shows my test where I used washers as shims to test my theory. Result - excessive vibration is GONE. The bike is very smooth and the handlebars don’t jump around at idle.
Picture “C” shows the final result. I cut some brass shim stock to fit and used longer bolts to accommodate the shim’s thickness.
Picture “D” shows a scissors jack and block of wood I used to hold the engine up when I had the mounting bolts removed. I had my wife steady the bike and hold it level while I worked on the mount.
Picture “E” shows the shim stock I made and the bolts I used. The stock HD fasteners for the motor mounts are chrome plated, grade 8, socket head screws, 3/8 inch – 16 tpi – and 1 1/8 inches long. [CORRECTION: THE 2005 PARTS MANUAL LISTS THE BOLT LENGTH AS 1 1/8 INCH, THE MEASURED LENGTH IS 1 1/4 INCH] I obtained quality grade 8 bolts, (local caterpillar dealer) slightly longer than stock, to accommodate the shims and still retain the same purchase in the mount.
Some Hints:
--- Don't force shims into the gap, you don't want to create a problem in the opposite direction.
- Have a Service Manual available for the alignment procedure.
- When initially measuring the frame to mount gap DO NOT LOOSEN THE REAR MOTOR MOUNT BOLTS. You want to determine the total mount to frame gap.
- After you shim the front mount, be sure to do the alignment procedure in the Service Manual as the rear mount now will need to be able to align itself.
- Be sure to keep the bike VERTICAL when you are working on these mounts. I attach a level to the front and to the rear brake disks to make sure the bike is level.
- My bike tracks straight, I did not need to mess with the alignment adjustment under the tank.
I agree, the Service Manual is not real clear here. The Service Manual section on motor mount REPLACEMENT (end of section 2) shows installing the frame to mount bolts and THEN the bolts that run through the mount. Earlier, when I was aligning my bike per the Service Manual, I did loosen the frame to mount bolts AND the bolts that run through the mount itself.
However, when doing this motor mount shim exercise I have been loosening just the the bolts that attach the mount to the frame. This has resulted in an acceptable level of vibration (like a Harley should have :-) ) to me. I certainly don't think loosening the other bolts would harm anything, and most likely would make the vibration less.
I only shimmed the front mount. With the front mounting bolts loosened, the rear mount (transmission) should not be under stress so the gap between the front mount and the frame should represent the ENTIRE distance you need to shim.
THAT IS THE REASON YOU DON'T WANT TO LOOSEN THE REAR MOUNTING BOLTS WHEN YOU ARE WORKING TO DETERMINE THE SHIM THICKNESS. Once the shims are in place, THEN the alignment process will require both the front/back motor mount bolts to be loose.
The sissors jack was pretty handy to place (lift) the engine at the proper height to measure/add shims. The bolts should turn in by hand. If the bolts are binding, then the mount and frame holes are not lined-up properly and you need to "tweak" the motor position by raising/lowering the jack.
Things should go together EASILY, if not, then take a minute to figure out what the problem is.
INSPECTION:
Vehicle alignment is very important to assure proper
handling and vibration control. Improper alignment
could lead to an accident which could result in death or
serious injury.
NOTE
Check the stabilizer for wear every 10,000 miles (16,000 km).
1. Verify wheels are true to specifications. See 2.10 TRUING
LACED WHEEL or 2.11 CAST WHEEL RUNOUT.
2. Check steering head bearing adjustment and adjust if
necessary. See 1.17 STEERING HEAD BEARINGS.
3. See Figure 2-62. To ensure accurate measurements,
obtain a piece of 1/8 in. (3.2 mm) aluminum welding rod
11 in. (280 mm) long. Grind one end down to a blunt
point. With a pliers, bend the rod 90 degrees as shown.
Place a snug fitting grommet on the rod to act as a slide
measurement indicator.
4. See Figure 2-61. With the blunt point of the alignment
tool inserted in the rear fork pilot hole, slide the rubber
grommet along the tool until it is aligned with the center
of the axle as shown. Repeat for the other side of the
motorcycle.
5. See Figure 2-63. The measurement between the center
of the rear axle and the rear fork hole must be equal to
within 1/32 in. on both sides of the motorcycle. If it is not,
adjust the rear wheel with the axle adjusters to accom-
plish the equal measurement. It is extremely important
that this adjustment be made as accurately as possible
in order to make the remaining adjustments accurate.
6. Raise the rear of the motorcycle so that the rear wheel
spins freely. Do this by placing a center stand or blocking
under the frame.
7. See Figure 2-64. Remove the bolt (2) which attaches the
top stabilizer link (1) to the engine mounting bracket.
8. Position front wheel so brake disc is vertical using an
inclinometer. If possible, use a digital inclinometer for the
best accuracy.
NOTES
The exhaust system must be in place while pet1orming
the following steps.
Motorcycle must be upright and level before pet1orming
this procedure.
The Dyna Glide stabilizer link should only be loosened/
adjusted on one end. There is one end that has threads
showing. Adjust this end only. Do not loosen/adjust the
other end or the isolator will tear.
9. Loosen jamnut (3) on stabilizer link. Adjust the stabilizer
so that the bolt removed in step 7 can be reinstalled with-
out pushing the engine to the right or left. Tighten jam-
nut.
10. Check the rear brake disc with the inclinometer to ensure
that it is parallel to the front brake disc.
IF THE ABOVE STEPS DO NOT ALIGN VEHICLE:
11. If the rear brake disc is not parallel to the front brake
disc, adjust the top stabilizer link until the rear brake is
parallel to within 1 degree of the front brake disc's posi-
tion.
12. If you cannot adjust the front and rear brake discs to
within 1 degree, inspect the frame, front fork and/or rear
fork for damage.
There should be 0.25 in. (6.4 mm) minimum clearance
between the fuel tank tunnel and the head of the left sta-
bilizer link mounting bolt. If there is not this minimum
clearance, it is possible for the bolt head to damage the
fuel tank, which could result in death or serious injury.
13. If you have to adjust the top stabilizer link more than five
full turns to bring the brake discs tb specification, again
inspect the frame, front fork and/or rear fork for damage.
14. Tighten the stabilizer jam nut (3).
NOTE
If the stabilizer link has been adjusted more than five full
turns, the vehicle's vibration will very likely have reached an
unacceptable level. Adjust the vehicle's vibration level as fol-
lows:
15. Be sure the transmission is in neutral.
16. Loosen, but do not remove, ALL the mounting bolts on
the engine isolators and start the engine. Let the engine
run for approximately 5 seconds. This will center the
mounts on the frame and power train assembly.
17. Tighten isolator mounting bolts to 25 ft-Ibs (33.9 Nm)
Frohes schaffen am Vibrator ...
Geil
- it performs and is this not what you are trying to achieve? There is much information all over the hdforums and the v-twinforums in the US about how good this product is and how it also reduced vibration to the Dyna models though it wasn't designed specifically for this purpose. Go to the stabilizer web site itself and read about the product before you form your opinion - www.true-track.com 
The tip from Roland is also good information!
, wenn es hilft.